Photo Toning

I've learned quite a bit in recent days about how to "tone" a photo, with the goal being "density", nice colors, and a harmonious blend of light and dark without being cartoonish or artificially contrasty. Here's my latest attempt:



Big version here.

Incidentally, the photo was toned from this version, which is what I got out of my "tone-mapping" software to increase the dynamic range. Here's what that looked like:






And the image with no special processing of any kind (which doesn't do justice to how the scene looked in person, unlike the first one above):